EBC: SOME QUESTIONS ANSWERED

My spontaneous decision to hike to Everest Base Camp dawned on me a few days before leaving. Not the 120km itself, but the many questions accompanying it. Where would I be staying, and what is a teahouse anyway? Is a fourth pair of socks overkill? Can I stretch out one pack of baby wipes?  What will my group be like? Will there be coffee? How many snacks are too many? The list goes on.

Some questions were easy to find answers to, but others were not. Here are some that came up for me and (hopefully) some useful answers from my own experience in October 2017. You can click to go to specific questions by using the links below:

How do I get there?
Are flights often cancelled due to bad weather?
Should I go with a company?
What company did you go with?
What shall I pack?
How much money do I need?
What time of year is best to go?
How fit do I have to be?
Is it safe?
What are the teahouses like?
What do you eat?
Creature comforts?
What are the days like?
Is it common to become unwell?
what to do after everest base camp?

how do i get there?

Take a plane from Kathmandu International Airport to Lukla; the gateway to Sagamantha National park at 2,840m, where most treks begin.

Nervous fliers look away now. Start your adventure with a tiny plane, turbulence and descent onto an extremely short steeped runway ( 1,729 feet with a 2,000ft drop at one end, and a stone wall the other to be precise). Multiple flights by multiple providers depart each day. Primetime is between 6am- 11am when the weather is most likely to be clear, so get there early to avoid hanging around. If you go with a company they will sort your tickets out and this is usually included in your total trip cost.

There is no first-class, luggage store or preferred airline. Simply walk to the plane, find your bags thrown in, take the free cotton wool for your ears, strap in and enjoy the views.

Sit on the left on the way if possible but views are good on either side. At times you are within touching distance of the mountains, with the pilots using visual skills and knowledge alone to get you there.

Nervous fliers, if you are still with me: you may have a white knuckle ride.  Yes, Lukla is consistently named ‘World’s Most Dangerous Airport’ but it is only a 40 minutes journey, so much quicker than most flights to Nepal! If you cannot face it then be prepared for a 9-hour ish bus ride from Kathmandu to a town like Jiri, or a jeep to Salleri, and then a 3- 5 day hike uphill to Lukla.

are flights often cancelled due to bad weather?

It is not uncommon to wait for 1-3 days for bad weather to improve so flights can depart and land at Lukla airport. I went in October but the fog still plagued Lukla on and off the week of our departure. After all, there are no navigation systems, just the pilot’s visual skills to navigate around the peaks and quick descent.

Factor in a few days before and after the trek in Kathmandu to allow for any delays, and to avoid costly changes to your international flights. I seriously debated whether to take heed to this advice but was relieved I did the day we woke at 6am after celebrations the night before, to the news of no flights, and a blanket of fog and rain outside. If you are going with a company they will try their best to get you out of Lukla by helicopter, although if you are stuck in Kathmandu a helicopter to Lukla is unlikely without significant cost. Walking in or out of Lukla is an alternative option.

One tip if you do go with a company: check what reviews say about how the company dealt with any cancelled flights. Our company did not make us pay for the helicopter out and sorted it on the day we were due to depart. We still ended up being reunited with the eagerly awaited shower in Kathmandu by mid-afternoon. Other groups were made to pay 100 – 200 dollars extra, and some could not leave on their planned departure date.

Go with an open mind and acceptance delays are possible, no matter how good the weather is during the hike. These things do happen whilst travelling, and you cannot control the weather so it is best to let go and not worry. Enjoy being in close proximity to the mountains that little longer, as you will get where you want to be eventually,  what will be a shower and whatever food you have craved if you are returning to Kathmandu.

should I go with a company?

There are three options for hiking to Base Camp- go with a company, hire a guide and/or porter, or go alone. I will speak from my experience of going with a company. This cost me around 1300 pounds, and I found most Nepalese companies set similar prices.

Always question why the cost is so low if you find a significantly cheaper company compared to others.

Reasons to go with a company or guide/porter:

• As above:  you are likely to get out of Lukla quicker if flights are grounded. Some people had been waiting for several days to leave who did not go with a company.
• Less stressful. You know you will have somewhere to stay. The guides speak the local languages and will look after you if you become unwell. All you have to do is focus on walking, with little else to organise.
• Reliability. Depending on where you have travelled, Nepal’s tourist infrastructure may surprise you. Companies are used to the way it works.
• People. This is a personal choice, but it is likely there will be others in your group. I emailed in advance and found out there would be 11 of us, which did send a few worrying thoughts through my mind as I usually hike alone or in small groups. Although I did steal a few envious glances at the few who walked alone, I am pleased as I made friends for life and it was so much fun.
• Depending on your guide, you will still be able to get some alone time if they let you walk ahead. Guides will also support those at the back, so do not feel under pressure to keep up with those at the front. You will reunite at the teahouses if not before.
• Less to carry. I was conflicted about the fact a porter carried my main bag, which is common if you go with a company. I admired the few people I saw carrying their own gear. Do not do this if you are not used to it-  they all looked like they were struggling!
• If you do have a porter give them a fair tip, keep to bag weight limits, give them any leftover gear and of course, show your gratitude- their strength and stamina will leave you in awe as they power past.
• It supports the local economy if you go with a local company. When deciding on tips be mindful that porters often are paid a lot less than the guides.
• The company took note of my birthday and surprised me with a cake, hat, a Mars Bar and blessings, which was so kind. It was nice to have a familiar group around me to celebrate.

Things to consider:

• I debated booking when I arrived as this is consistently reported as cheaper and easy to do, but my strict schedule meant it was easier to find a reputable company before I left.
• You will meet people regardless of how you do the hike.
• It can be so insightful speaking to your guide, who will provide insight into their own life and Nepalese/Sherpa culture. 
• It is easy to navigate without a guide or porter but they will know the trails inside out.
• Porters are less likely to speak English.
• As a solo female traveller who has been to Nepal and spoke to others, I would be mindful as to who my guide/porter was if booking privately. Definitely speak to others who have done it to see who they would recommend, and read plenty of reviews. It is important you feel comfortable, and that they treat you professionally, and with respect.
• If you do go with a guide/porter shop around. Kathmandu offers more choices, but Lukla is likely to be cheaper. It depends on how fussed you are about their reputation. Guides and companies are more likely to be able to get good rooms and nicer teahouses than porters alone.

What company did you go with?

Mosaic Adventures; a Nepalese company based in Kathmandu. There are so many companies to choose from, and as I only booked a week in advance I did not have long to research! I emailed a few but opted for Mosaic as they had good reviews, their email response was quick and their website looked professional. I prefer to go with local companies, and international ones tend to use locally based companies anyway. International companies were not only more costly but did not offer as much in the total trip cost, such as by excluding meals.

Mosaic offered the following as part of the total trip cost: 

Airport pick up/ drop off, hotel with breakfasts/ a leaving meal in Kathmandu, required permits and park fees, a city tour that hits the main sights in a day (go with a company who does this before the trek. It helps orientate you to the craziness of Kathmandu, and once you have finished the hike you will want to relax at the hotel!), flights to Lukla, all meals/ teahouses during the trek, and gear loans such as duffel bags and sleeping bags.

I also asked how many were in the group beforehand. There were 11 of us, with 4 doing the EBC trek, and the rest going on to Gokyo lake which looks incredible! As a result, we had two guides until descent. This was useful to support those at the front and back.

Mosaic stood out from the other groups who stayed in the same teahouses as us. We had free fresh fruit each night (refreshing after all the carbs!), free gear loans and our helicopter flight was free. Overall I would recommend them but do your research to see what company suits you.

what shall I pack?

See this post for my packing list, with the luxury of hindsight.

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kilimanjaro or everest base camp? decisions decisions.

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how much money do i need?

It depends on what you have already booked and how you plan to do the trip. From going alone, camping and hiking to Lukla; to flying in and going with an international company, costs can vary considerably. Still check out companies’ breakdowns of trip costs to work out what to budget for if you go independently.

Asides from the trip cost of 1300 pounds, Mosaic suggested budgeting around 10 dollars per day on the trek, and 20 dollars per day in Kathmandu (converted to rupees). I did have money left over. Consider how often you plan to pay for power, use wifi, how many apple pies you plan to consume, and how much tea you plan to drink (some people even pack teabags). Prices increase for all of these items the higher you go.

Some points:

• Example prices in 2017: 200- 600 rupees for a ‘hot’ shower, up to 500/600 rupees for an hour’s charge, 50-200 rupees for one litre of bottled water, around 500 rupees for (often unreliable) wifi, and 100-300 rupees for boiled water.
• I took my money for the tour and tips in envelopes. Tipping was stressful. I have read various suggestions such as 15% of the trip cost from all the group or even per person. Unlike when I went to Tanzania tipping is not spoken about and the company did not advise on what to do, despite us getting the sense tips of larger amounts are expected. I would suggest tipping what you feel is fair and realistic considering wages.
  Give it right at the end in rupees and as a group in envelopes if possible.
• The ATMs can be unreliable: try a few but it is good to have some cash on you as backup. In Kathmandu, there are plenty of money exchangers and ATMs. I found all the money exchangers in Thamel were at the same rate for GBP. Airport rates were not as good.
• Visa: You pay on arrival, usually in dollars. This was 40 dollars for 30 days.
• Insurance insurance insurance: Include hiking at altitude and medical evacuation by helicopter up to 6000m. This cost me 150 pounds.
• Gear cost: Acquire gear in Kathmandu if needed. I have read that you can also hire gear in Thamel (backpacker central, became pedestrianised when we returned which was nice). Cheaper stores in the UK such as Decathalon also offer good value gear so shop around.
• International flights: I went with Emirates and booked a week before. This was around 600 pounds.

what time of year is best to go?

Nepal has two trekking seasons: pre-monsoon (March, April, and May) and post-monsoon (September, October, and November). The weather tends to be best during these times (-5c at night – 16c in the day), hence the spike in visitor numbers. I can vouch for October. It offered beautiful views of the mountains, no rainfall, and blue skies most days, but there were busy parts of the trail. After all, over 35,000 people a year visit Everest Base Camp. With numbers and questions about sustainability continuously rising, be prepared for the company.

You can hike in December-Feb but you need the correct gear, temperatures take a dramatic dip and snow can close passes. It is a  good time to avoid crowds though.

Kathmandu was noticeably less humid when we returned at the end of October.

Note that Base Camp will only be occupied with climbers and tents pre-monsoon season.

how fit do i have to be?

It is achievable for most with a basic level of fitness., especially if a porter carries your main bag. The fitter you are, the more enjoyable the trip will be. Days can be long and there are plenty of steep inclines to work the muscles. I met people of various ages up to age 75, with different degrees of fitness.

Some had vigorously prepped, others- who like me live where there is little incline – did not do much on top of their normal fitness regime (what for some was non-existent!)  The best preparation is to hike, even if it is just local walks where you live with your gear, to reduce the chance of injury (especially blisters) and to wear it all in.

I attend the gym 4-6 times per week and mainly do weights, along with yoga and the occasional agony-inducing stair master or spin. I only booked this trip a week before so hoped the 4-mile local hike I hurriedly squeezed in would engage the right muscles.

You could be a professional athlete and still succumb to altitude sickness, often fitness does not help in the altitude department. If you go with a group it is likely there will be different paces. The guide will work with this. 

is it safe?

One of the girls in my group was sent an article about the ’50 ways to die’ hiking to Base Camp. We joked this shifted fears from being focused on altitude alone. Joking aside, you do fly into one of the World’s Most Dangerous Airports, but yes it is a relatively safe hike to do.

If you are hiking solo it is worth looking into what extra precautions to take, but being prepared gear-wise, using common sense when it comes to valuables, and listening to your guides are the standard steps to take. Avalanche risk on the trail is low. It is important to be mindful of the yak trains which come crawling around the mountains, with bells ringing to give you notice. Always stay mountainside and wait for them to pass. You do not want to be knocked off the edge, which can and does happen. Someone sadly died when we were doing the trek from falling off the trail.

Take altitude sickness seriously. Read my thoughts on Diamox here.

what are the teahouses like?

I woke and remembered that I had left my duffel unzipped one night. Quiet as I could be, I wormed myself to the end of the bed, throwing off the provided blanket in the process, before hesitantly exposing my arms to the cold air from the comfort of my sleeping bag.  Unbeknown to me, my roommate was awake listening to the sound of scuttling rats, and me moving was a sign to her that I had heard them in the room. She began screaming. Loudly.  This woke our other roommate who began screaming half-asleep before I joined in confusion. A moment passed before we burst out laughing. The half-asleep roommate feared an intruder, the other the suspected rats.

And me? Well… I guess I will blame it on the altitude and time.

If you are used to camping or staying in hostels, the teahouses feel a relative luxury despite the story above! In general, they are of a similar standard, though even the ones that claimed to be the ‘Comfort Inn’ and ‘Shangri-la’ did not live up to their namesakes.

Rooms tend to sleep 1-3 people, so for me, I occasionally had my own room which was nice for space, but at times looked suspiciously like a closest with a bed hastily thrown in on my arrival. Beds can be uncomfortable but blankets are provided and you will be too tired to care when there are no duck feathered pillows. It is an added bonus you may say when your alarm goes off at 6am and the springs dig into your sore spots willing you up into the cold of the room.

The communal dining room is often cosy and warm with fires going. This is where all groups gather and you can purchase tea, snacks or wifi between meals before braving lights out and the cold rooms. It usually has a nice atmosphere and is a good time to meet other groups. There will always be a returning altitude tale or two.

Higher up dried yak dung may be used to power the fires. If so it is smokey, and the smell seems to travel through the paper-thin walls to the bedrooms. We made up for it the night we began screaming.
For those now worried about rats, keep your bags zipped up and food sealed at night. None of us saw any but we definitely heard them on occasion.

Just keep telling yourself they are in the walls.

There are some nicer lodges. We visited Namche’s ‘Everest View’ hotel for tea on our acclimatisation day. This rocked a 5-star air in comparison to the teahouses below. I would not trade in the experience of staying in teahouses though. The first few nights offer flushing toilets and maybe an en-suite if you are lucky. These then morph into a couple of squat toilets per floor.

Do not count on the shower actually working in the room. Test it before proudly showing it off to your group! 

Most teahouses follow a similar concept but may differ in size. One of my favourites was on the descent. It has a motel vibe with only four rooms, with locals drinking rice beer and playing Nepalese music videos inside. It was the best dahl baht I tasted despite the limited kitchen, and we ended up having a popcorn party with everyone.

World Expeditions have campsites along the trail. I did see the odd tent in each place we stayed in what I am guessing belonged to solo hikers. However wild camping is not permitted. 

what do you eat?

I was pleasantly surprised at the menu offered initially. By the end of it the variety did not seem so…varied.
For breakfast pancakes, porridge, toast, eggs and Tibetan bread with jam are often the main options. Our guide picked our lunch in advance each day (see above) but it was often not much different from dinner.
Momos (see in the photo above), Dal bhat (DB power), potatoes with vegetables, fried rice, and interpretations of pasta, chips, and pizza are examples of the main options.

I would recommend sticking to Nepalese food as much as possible (e.g. DB- lentil soup, curried potatoes, popadom, rice – most people tend to pour the soup over the rice). Save the pasta for lunches if your guide picks or for when you feel unwell and need something plain. DB was my favourite with free seconds and fresh vegetables, though less so at higher altitudes. A sherpa stew that did not look appetising left a rumbling in my stomach the next day, and the vegetable spring rolls full of noodles were two meals I could skip if I repeated it.

You can buy snacks on the trail such as Mars bars but it can get costly. I enjoyed the popcorn. Bring some of your own snacks. See what I took here.

• Do not bother eating meat. It has to be transported up the mountain and can increase the chance of travellers’ diarrhoea.
• Check that the cake you eat in the bakery has been made and put out that day. 
• Bring antibiotics if possible, along with laxatives and Immodium. I take probiotics when travelling.          
• You can get an unsettled stomach from mild altitude sickness. Chewable Gaviscon tablets can help with this.

creature comforts?

Wifi (I did not use this much- the bakeries in Namche and Lukla have free wifi), pay to charge electronic devices, a few hours of light each evening at the teahouses, a choice of food, a bed at night… the odd hot shower, and running water… it is not too bad!

The higher you go, the more limited the toilets. Your guide will be able to point out the nearest one and you stop for tea breaks from time to time. After having to trek up a steep muddy slope to a wooden shack with a drop toilet I decided going outside behind a rock was more appealing. Everyone does this and you soon learn not to care.

• Bring a plastic bag to carry toilet paper and/or rubbish to the next stop. 
• Do not wash your hair at higher elevations as you will be stuck with wet hair in the cold. Best to avoid showers after Namche.
  
• Apparently, there is a laundry service in Namche.

what are the days like?

Companies will provide itineraries so check them out. Days tend to begin early, with the 6am alarm becoming familiar. After packing up, you eat breakfast, discuss the day ahead and then begin. Regular breaks include a stop for lunch, or lunch at your next teahouse if it is a short hiking day.

You can be walking for 4 hours- 8 hours on average. There are two acclimatisation days for a short return walk to hike high then sleep low. It depends on the terrain, altitude and distance you are covering. At higher altitudes shorter days can still be challenging, but the views around you usually are enough to stir a joy deep within to push you on.

You pass villages with smiling children, the odd shop, stone walls, chickens, dogs, prayer flags, porters resting, porters passing you, yaks, donkeys, waterfalls and everything in-between, with the mountain peaks never too far from sight. Not forgetting fellow hikers who all tend to be friendly. Buddhist prayer rocks, stupas and prayer wheels dot the landscape, especially during the first few days.

Walk to the right of religious markers to remain on the right hand of God. 

Example itinerary:

• Day 2 is when you get to experience the suspension bridges! They are in a good condition and are a lot of fun.  Those who do not like heights tend to shuffle along as quickly as possible.
• Day 3 offers your first view Everest. You stay in what feels like a surreal ski resort. Make the most of Namche’s civilisation, with an Irish Bar, bakeries and shops. Much celebration is had here on descent.
• Day 6 you can visit the monastery in Tyangboche to watch the Lamas perform their rituals.
  Note this goes on for a couple of hours. People go in and out. 
• Day 10 you hike to Base Camp.
• Day 11 you can hike to the top of Kala Patthar for sunrise (starting at 5am), before eating breakfast and descending 7 hours to Periche or beyond.Kala Patthar  stands at 5545m and you get the most beautiful views of Base Camp, the roaring Khumbu icefall, Everest and the surrounding peaks such as Lhotse, Changri and Nuptse. It is tough work in the cold and a frost formed a glaze over our backpacks. I was often battling the desire to stop. Our guide seemed tuned into our thoughts and time the breaks before we cracked. Every time I  slump against my hiking poles. Looking up at the stars with many shooting past illuminating the sky makes it worth it, as does the views from the top.
• Day 14– fly back to Kathmandu.

If you have the energy hike at sunset to Kala Patthar after Base Camp, because the sun casts a beautiful orange hue over the peaks. At least walk out of your teahouse in Gorak Shep (what can feel like an effort) to view the surrounding mountains.

is it common to become unwell?

It is common to experience mild altitude sickness of some description, such as headaches, or an unsettled stomach. Nearly everyone gets a cold or the Khumbu cough. I took Vitamin C tablets, used hand sanitiser, and covered my mouth with a buff through dusty areas, but still succumbed to it on descent.

At least 1 out of 4 travellers apparently experience traveller’s diarrhoea. We stayed in teahouses that tended to make food to order. I always took probiotics and tried to opt for local dishes. As I mentioned previously check bakery goods are fresh, hand sanitise regularly, and bring antibiotics if possible. Avoid meat on the trail.

Always treat the water. Ideally treat water instead of constantly buying plastic bottles. There are plenty of places to fill up. I drank from streams, sinks and water taps. A filter bottle or chloride dioxide tablets worked for me. I tended to use treated water to brush my teeth also. Hot tea and coffee did not give me any issues. Check out more information in this post.

what to do after everest base camp?

It depends on how long you have. Kathmandu is a colourful, dusty and energetic city to challenge your senses. Many companies factor in a couple of days before and after the trek to spend in Kathmandu. Often a city tour will be included to hit the main sights and move beyond Thamel.

Sights include: Boudhanath Stupa, Swayambhunath, Pashupatinath Temple and Patan Durbar square. 

My final two days were spent wandering around backpacker haven Thamel (that had been pedestrianised since we had been away!), spending time with friends and relaxing. I also made the most of having a shower.

• Food in Thamel:
  Chick N falafel: takeaway. What is says on the tin. Their falafel wraps are delicious.
  OR2K: Who also owns Chick N Falafel. It offers vegetarian food with floor cushioned seating. I recommend their Mediterranean platters.
  Pumpnickel: coffee and baked goods.
  Western Tandoori:  cheap delicious local eatery.
  Friends: Nice place to relax with music, coffee and good food.
  Places: Delicious vegetarian and vegan food including breakfasts and pesto momos.

If you have more time, consider heading to Chitwan National Park for safari, Pokhara for paragliding and beyond!

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Narrative: EBC: The khumbu cough and other unexpected joys 

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I hope this is useful!
any other questions? comment below.