‘MARRAKECH TAUGHT ME COLOUR’ – YVES SAINT LAURENT
seven day Morocco road trip itinerary: Tangier- fes (by train) > fes- erg chebbi > erg chebbi- dades gorge > dades gorge- marrakech
It was inevitable. After a week of hitchhiking through France and Spain, finished off with a bumpy ferry ride, we needed a break. Unfortunately this took a little while to realise. Initially our senses were heightened when we reached Tangier port and steadied our sea legs. This allowed us to focus on the Morocco road trip ahead of us, and in our excitement we declined the many taxi offers. Instead we walked twenty minutes to the station to catch a train to Fes, where we would then be back on the road to Marrakesh. Not a big deal right?
The twenty minute walk to Tangier train station became a daze, as excitement wore off, discussions ceased, and heat creeped in. Our walking slowed. We missed a turning. The second warning sign that hitchhiking had caught up with us was missing our train to Fes, so we had to wait another hour. Then my tactically-packed Moroccan trousers ripped to reveal my pants to all at said station during this time. The third was my friend throwing up on the rickety train. And five more hours to get through.
Our adventure was just beginning.
the prelude to our moroccan road trip: hitchhiking: u.k to morocco
Tarifa port in Spain had warmed us up, but Morocco had truly embraced us, with the multitude of sights, sounds, and smells it unapologetically and skilfully delivers. Everything felt sharper, brighter, louder. Tangier and its coast faded into the distance but a slice of this action continued on the train headed to Fes. During this time our invincibility from successfully hitchhiking from the U.K to Spain had quickly crumbled, as travel humbled us once more.
Life continued on around us as I held my friend’s hair and waved away sellers of rich foods and fruit, waved at children through the open windows playing in dusty towns, and stared out cattle at each nameless stop. At one point tissue was passed to me to clean the area up. Villages and towns passed by, with the occasional swamped platform making us question whether it was Fes. Or this. Please this. Or maybe this?
Five hours passed in a flurry of heat, fluctuating train speeds, shrieks and silent stretches of countryside. A friendly local lady with four raucous boys took pity on us. She fed us juicy oranges, sewed my trousers and gave my friend mint to stop sickness. At a particularly busy stop without station name or announcement she pushed us and our backpacks off, wishing us well with a warm smile and wave as we stumbled into the delights of Fes. Bellies full with oranges, with no more trains to endure, and my friend feeling slightly better.
Fes to Erg Chebbi (sahara desert)
Our first stop before our Moroccan road trip officially began. Prepare to get lost and brave the donkey traffic. It is worth it. After all, Fes’s medina retains a glimpse into its cultural and historical beginnings. For example it is home to one of the first universities in the world, traditional industries including the dyeing vats at Chouara Tannery, and artisan havens behind crumbling buildings.
Pedestrian souks with over 9400 alleyways offer a labyrinth bingo of a dead end, an open square with ornate buildings and fountains, or a street full of food and craft glory. And probably that same colourful slipper store again, as you strain to find familiarity amongst bold fabrics, tumbling terracotta pots and copper lanterns in order to stop walking in circles. Go to the rooftops to reunite with the beating sun, the surrounding green hills and to gain some perspective on the UNESCO protected unmappable maze below.
Our six pounds per night room had an ensemble of flies that gathered on the ceiling each night, and broke away at call to prayer as if in a dance. Whilst this happened we desperately swatted them away and tried to get the advertised but unworkable ensuite going. Hence the flies won on the elegance front. It was not the rest we hoped for. So we left them to it and spent our time restlessly exploring the medina peppered with shops, stalls and hidden treasures.
Blue skies framed the gorgeously green tiles of mosques and ivory towers. After walking in circles on our own, we hired a guide from near the tourist information office to guide us to all the main spots, with the odd dreamy carpet shop thrown in much to our hitchhike budget amusement. Maybe next time.
With ample mint tea consumed, our senses astir and Fes satisfyingly explored after a few days in the souks and modern area of town we stayed in, our road trip to Marrakech began. Climbing hills adorned with cedar forests and Barbary apes in the trees quickly replaced charming Fes, and any expectations we had about Moroccan scenery faded. We briefly stopped in the bizarre Ifrane, a popular ski resort interestingly resembling a Swiss village. Then we headed on through the oasis of Ziz Valley before changing our transport to camels for a night in the Sahara.
A camel ride is not comfortable, but it was breathtaking to pad silently through endless orange sand dunes, and before long I realised why a Sahara trip whilst in Morocco is a must. Sky morphed into sand as the sun set and the faint sound of drums carried by the wind reached our ears. Oasis Tombouctou was our home for the night; a desert camp under the stars with dunes to climb up for sunset, delicious Moroccan food to eat and live music to listen to. Our Dutch companions were a little worse for wear on return by camel after a night of drinking. Consequently we were relieved to have stuck to Berber whiskey: mint tea.
Erg chebbi to dades gorge
After a sad departure from the desert we were on the road to Marrakech again. We spent the day exploring Todra Gorge, the unsual Tamnalt rock formations and Dadas Gorge. This is a common stop on the Fes to Marrakech drive and takes the Moroccan scenery to the next level. Ruined kasabahs rest atop curved valleys and along lonely plains. Gorges and rocks emerge suddenly, to mark the proximity of the Atlas mountains.
Todra is known to be the highest oasis in Morocco, with erosion having carved deep rock walls reaching over 300m. As a result there are plenty of day hikes to explore this geographical marvel, or just wander through the main tourist area of the gorge. Dadas gorge offers winding roads and sheer drops with coffee stops overlooking its valleys. Our hotel was perched on one of its cliff edges. Accordingly we spent the evening watching the sunset over the red-etched canyons.
dades gorge to marrakech
Viewpoints galore. We passed through Kelaa M’Gouna (‘Valley of Roses’) and sampled its rose products, then travelled via the road of One Thousand Kasbahs. Stops in desert town Ouarzazate and nearby UNESCO-protected fortress Ait Ben Haddou felt like something straight from a movie. And for good reason too, as many films and television series are set here. For example, Gladiator, Inception and Game of Thrones were filmed here. This means much of Ait Ben Haddou has been restored.
These stops display typical Saharan building techniques. Ait Ben Haddou’s earthen kasbahs resemble mini castles collectively placed to form a mighty fortified kingdom. Wander past its merchant houses and dwellings to the highest point for 360 degree views of surrounding deserts and valleys.
From here we crossed Tizi n’Tichka, the highest pass that you can drive over at 7,415ft and gateway to the High Atlas mountains. This is one of the perks of travelling through Morocco by car. However do not underestimate it, as the Atlas Mountains stretch on for around 2,500km, hence why ‘High Atlas’ or ‘Middle Atlas’ help distinguish its different parts. Plus, its snow-capped peaks, berber villages and valleys offer plenty of trekking opportunities, meaning you may want to stay here for longer and explore by foot. Due to our limited time, we just spent the time driving through the Atlas mountains, and admiring the final stretch of peaceful Moroccan scenery, before descending into the craziness of Marrakech.
marrakech
Our final stop of our Morocco road trip and what a way to end two weeks hitchhiking from the UK to Marrakech and travelling through Morocco by car. Follow our pattern in Marrakech: get lost, barter, cook and retreat. Then repeat. Although it is firmly on the main tourist radar, it remains undiluted, raw. Dive in to its medina full of vibrant souks, peaceful riads, snake charmers and fortune tellers, fragrant food stalls and persistent shop owners.
You can spend several days exploring, shopping and eating your way around its delights. Highlights include the Jemma el- Fnaa, Saadian Tombs, Jardin Majorelle, Koutoubia Mosque, and Ben Youssef Madrasa*. We often ate around the Jemma el-Fnaa square. Also consider checking out the variety of museums including the Yves Saint Laurent museum and Maison de la Photographie.
- * Gorgeous Ben Youssef Madrasa is closed for refurbishment as of 2018 until 2020. Book a trip for when it re-opens!
There are hammans, and gardens to visit and recharge from the frenzied fun of the medina. However relaxing in our riad and spending time on its rooftop was the perfect spot for us to relax. Head to a rooftop to hear the musical call to prayer, drink mint tea and watch the sunset. Also, I recommend taking a cooking class. We went to the market and brought all the ingredients to learn how to make a tagine and Moroccan salad.
Our time in Morocco was magical despite our bumpy start when propelled head first into its sense-enhancing delights. From the warm locals we met, delicious food consumed, to our time in the mystical Sahara trip under a blanket of stars. Not forgetting the breathtaking green valleys, winding white knuckle roads, architectural remnants of past desert life, chaotically organised souks, ornate buildings and dreamy tiles, with musical calls to prayer and rainbow hued sunsets and sunrises. It taught us colour, it taught us sound, it taught us patience, and it taught us to tune to the local rhythm and embrace its spirit, as always.
useful information and tips for travel in morocco
- Getting there: There are plenty of cheap flight options from the U.K. Destinations served include Tangier, Casablanca, Marrakech, Fes, Agadir, and Essaouira. Dependable on destination providers include easyJet, Ryanair, Royal Air Maroc, and TUI.
– We flew back from Marrakech to London Heathrow with Vueling via Barcelona as it was the cheapest option.
– Alternatively catch a ferry to Morocco from various ports in Spain including Tarifa, Gibraltar and Algeciras. Most dock in Tangier and there are often many daily departures. Plus we just bought our tickets on the day of travel at the port. - Getting around: Many people asked if driving in Morocco is safe. Due to our limited time frame we did not do a self-drive tour. Instead, we used Your Morocco Tour for our trip road trip from from Fes-Marrakech, because they offered the best value trip I could find and a friend recommended them. Tips and lunches were the only additional costs.
– We purchased our train tickets to Fes on the day of travel without problem at the station. Train travel between major cities is cheap and relatively straight forward. I would recommend a train trip to meet locals and experience another form of transport. Generally by car is the most convenient option.
– You can also look into bus transport with companies such as CTM. Alternatively consider internal flights, braving a local pick-up truck, using local petit/ grand or 4WD taxis, or hiring a car. To note, we felt it was better value to use a local company. This is because of how much we wanted to do in our limited time frame and working out costs accordingly.
– Car hire obviously increases your flexibility especially if you have more time to explore. Do you research, get the right insurance and read up on Morocco driving conditions, safety and tips. One thing is for sure, it is a travelling through Morocco by car or bus offers beautiful scenery and a diverse range of experiences. There are plenty of different Morocco road trip options. - Tip: Try to hire an official guide. They wear a badge and you can often hire them from the tourist information office or through your accommodation. Why have an official guide? Because most hold a wealth of information about Morocco’s history and have spent time studying it. Although we felt we did not need one in Marrakech, many people approached us offering directions then asked for money. It is better to use an official guide who will take you to all the main sights for a fair price (agree before starting), though a couple of shops may still be thrown in.
- Security: Generally we had no issues, but heard about pickpockets in Marrakech. Some general Morocco safety tips:
– Do not walk around medinas at night. Be wary of fake guides, and anyone who offers to show you anything without you asking!
– Also, it is recommended women cover up to avoid unwanted attention, see more under ‘note’ below. By taking these steps we felt safe as female travellers in Morocco, although there was still some unwanted comments.
– As always, get the right travel insurance and check up to date travel information such as your consulate’s website. - Common scams: Along with faux guides, there are some common Moroccan scams to aware of:
– Be wary when told that an attraction or street is closed. Or you need a guide to visit a tannery (not true). – Any offers of cheap prices for items or entry, or any offers to take you to a ‘special event’. In all these situations it is best to keep walking. If they follow you politely but firmly say no. Say this loudly to attract attention or contact the police if required.
– If you have been scammed try to opt out. For example, if you are suddenly taken to a shop or a tour has randomly begun when you asked for a simple direction. You could say you have changed your mind, feel poorly or have to contact a friend but did not realise the time. If this does not work firmly tell them this is not what you wanted and give them a minimum amount of money. Then leave. - Stay: Airbnb has become a popular option in Morocco.
– We stayed in a dorm in Riad Layla Rogue in Marrakech. It is in the Medina, with helpful staff and a beautiful interior.
– We stayed in the desert camp linked to Kasbah Hotel Tombouctou.
– Our hotel overlooking Dades Gorge: Dar Essyaha.
– I would not recommend our Fes stay, check Hostelworld for popular options. - Add on: If you have time, add blue-washed Chefchaouen to your itinerary. Also Casablanca continues to make headlines, and Essaouira is on my list for a dreamy beach escape and surfing. Again, this is why hiring a car allows for more flexibility. However do note many local tour companies offer personalised tours and will cater for your needs.
- Currency: Moroccan dirham (MAD). We exchanged euros upon arrival. Be wary of ATMs, as I had to visit a few before I successfully withdrew cash. Remember not to not take MAD out of the country.
- Note: Morocco is a conservative Muslim country. Availability of alcohol differs dependable on where you stay and travel to.
Despite tourists walking around Marrakech in a variety of outfits, I would recommend to cover up shoulders and knees. Like it or not, respect local culture and avoid street harassment which unfortunately is common. And besides, it is even more reason to purchase some of the colourful items on offer, especially in Marrakech. Loose floaty clothing, a hat, a pashmina, sunscreen and comfortable shoes come in handy.
Have you visited Morocco? How did you travel around? Comment below!
