CITY GUIDE: 2 WEEKS IN CAPE TOWN

Believe the hype, and the increasing visitor numbers heading to what Sir Francis Drake called, ‘the most stately thing and fairest cape we saw in the whole circumference of the Earth’. Cape Town. It may be a small city but it packs a punch: an incredible food scene, poignant history, innovative art, sandy beaches, beautiful people, soulful mountains and vineyards aplenty to name a few experiences it offers (all possible in one day too if you fancy).

Until a couple of years ago Cape Town had fallen under my radar. I am not sure why as it appeals to the masses, from holidaymakers to backpackers. I was lucky enough to stay with a local friend, so I had plenty of recommendations from him, and a friend from home who had spent several months there. Now I can see why. It is up there with Melbourne as one of my favourite cities in the world.

Here are some ideas about how to spend two weeks in Cape Town and the surrounding area. Click the links below to go to specific sections, or scroll away.

See & Do
Eat & Drink
Beyond
General Points

see & do

hike

I have written about my experiences of Lion’s Head, Table Mountain and Devil’s Peak here. Lion’s head and Table Mountain are popular routes, and easily accessible. Table Mountain more so as you can get the cable car down if it is open (unfortunately not for me), or both ways if you are unable to hike.
Views are incredible, with panoramas to give you an idea of Cape Town’s place on the peninsula between mountains, sea and sky. The walkable city is dwarfed further at this height, as you admire how nature blurs into the cosmopolitan city.
Get up for sunrise over Lion’s Head to avoid crowds and admire Table Mountain, or take a beer up for sunset.

Signal Hill- Hike, drive or catch a bus for views over Cape Town and the mountains.

ART

Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa: is housed in a converted grain silo set by the V&A Waterfront. Designed by the incredible British architecture Thomas Heatherwick, it is worth a visit just to admire the building and the atmosphere it instigates, let alone the nine floors of galleries focusing on 21st century South African contemporary art. It also encourages residents to visit, by offering them free admissions on certain days, local bus routes stop here and there is a centre for cultural art.

Street Art, Woodstock: I wandered around the revived neighbourhood of Woodstock myself, attempting to find the many street art pieces I had seen online, from conservation to politically charged murals. I had read that most works are in-between Albert and Victoria Road, and Essex and Barron Road (Cornwall Road has the elephant mural- you cannot miss it!). After wandering around the maze of streets for some time I had a moment of feeling a bit uneasy as a solo female. This was the first time I felt this way in Cape Town, and it was probably fine! However as a result of struggling to find some art pieces, and this experience I would suggest one of the street art tours. These are often ran by local artists and it allows you more of an insight into this interesting area.

HISTORY

Many people visit Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for 18 years. You have to book in advance online or queue on the day. As always I was pretty last minute, so most online slots were taken, and whenever I walked past the ticket office (V&A Waterfront), there were long queues. Partly due to this, and because I had read mixed reviews online, I decided with my limited time left to give it a miss.
There is also the Iziko South African Museum, Slave Lodge and walking tours for more on South Africa and specifically Cape Town’s harrowing history.

District Six Museum: Instead I visited the sobering District Six Museum in the city. It is tiny, but full of memoirs, artefacts, information and photos of the forced removal of over 60,000 black South Africans by 1982 from District Six, after it was declared a white-only area and flattened by bulldozers. It is also informative about forced removals, and the apartheid in general, as District Six was at the epicentre of this in Cape Town. You can wander around alone or book a tour around it with an ex-resident.

Also the Hop on/ Hop Off bus has an interesting commentary covering some of Cape Town’s historical background. It stops near most of the main sights.

NATURE

Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens: You could spend from a couple of hours to all day here. Bring a picnic and drinks for a weekend afternoon, or grab a coffee and croissant from the Garden’s cafe for an early morning wander. Situated on the eastern side of Table Mountain, it is full of various South African plants, gardens and sculptures. There is also a photogenic treetop canopy walk with views of Table Mountain and the city. You can also try one of the hikes, including up Table Mountain via Skeleton Gorge. In Summer attend one of the open-air Sunday concerts which have pretty good lineups. Standard adult entry into the gardens is R40.

Green Point Park & Biodiversity Garden: A good place to run around, to take a break from the city, and for views of the Olympic stadium and Signal Hill. The garden apparently has around 25,000 indigenous plants from the Cape.

Seapoint cycle- Grab a bike from one of the Up Cycle stations and complete part or all of the 7km route along the Seapoint promenade. It runs from from Bantry Bay to Mouille Point and connects to Green Point park. Admire the public art, lighthouse, and ocean. I started at the Waterfront station and dropped it off at Seapoint. Be wary of the weather- I was literally smacked with nature as the wind battled against my bike and engulfed me in sand. Check the website for up to date prices.

Company’s Garden– This is in the city centre and perfect to wander through or take a break in whilst visiting nearby sights, such as Planetarium, St George’s Cathedral, and Iziako South African museum.

beaches

There are many beaches but it depends on what transport options you have. Camps Bay is probably most accessible by public transport and due to its proximity to the city centre. 

Clifton beach: There are four beaches under the umbrella of Clifton. I was taken to the 2nd, where many photoshoots take place, and locals go. The flights of stairs to reach it are worth the effort, as you are greeted with a sheltered and picturesque city beach. Do not be fooled if you see people in the Atlantic ocean. They (like I was), are probably past the hurting point of coldness and just numb. If you can stand it the views, people watching and cool-down from the African sun is nice. However know you will not be alone if you do the silent retreat after dipping your feet in. Many have come before you. Make sure to join the masses and order a Granadilla lolly (Passionfruit deliciousness!). You cannot miss the sellers; often donning swim shorts with this namesake.

Camps Bay: I spent a morning at Camps Bay which tends to be busier due to its accessible location on the main strip of shops and restaurants. It is worth a visit for views of the Twelve Apostles and Lion’s Head.
As I arrived early on a weekday it was fairly quiet, although the only other time I saw it this quiet was a day of strong winds where the unsettled sands claimed the beach. Stick to a more sheltered beach on a windy day.  The Hop On/Hop off Bus stops here. 

Hout Bay: I briefly stopped here on the Hop On/ Hop Off bus but recommend you allow for a couple of hours to explore this picturesque beach and the surrounding neighbourhood. Visit Bay Harbour Market if its the weekend (9.30am-4pm). You can also stop here on the way back from Chapman’s Peak. 

Neighbourhoods

Along with the beaches, here are some areas to check out.

Bo-Kaap – You may recognise this colourful former township and Malay quarter from Instagram feeds. The mix of architectural styles (maybe with a classic car or two out front if you are lucky), central location, mosques, cobblestone roads and multicultural history are its main draws. Have a wander on your own or with a walking tour, and there is the option to see a preserved 19th century home at the Bo-Kaap museum.

Woodstock-  A gentrified neighbourhood with street art, galleries, third-wave coffee, bars and shops. Check out the Woodstock Exchange, which is full of cafes, boutique shops and a yoga studio. From here you can wander to the eclectic Old Biscuit Mill that plays host to a popular market on the weekend, and the amazing Pot Luck Club, before exploring the surrounding streets mixed with vibrant local joints, breweries, and revitalised buildings housing hip new businesses. However, like with many gentrified areas, prices are increasing for locals as a result. Take a walking tour to find out more about the street art and area from a local’s perspective.

V&A Waterfront- By the harbour, it is number two on Cape Town TripAdvisor attractions for a reason, but understandably this comes with the cost of a busy touristic feel. However the shopping centre, and surrounding cultural sights such as the Zeitz museum and it being gateway to Robben Island make it worth a visit. There are also plenty of places to eat and drink, thanks to the 123 hectares this area is set on! There are a mix of restaurants and cheaper food stalls, souvenir shops and well-known brands, plus a ferris wheel, aquarium and cinema; to name a few features. The Watershed Market and V&A Food Market are worth visiting. This is also one of the main stops for the hop on/ hop off bus.

Seapoint- Everything is better when you are by the ocean right? As noted above, the promenade is lovely to cycle or walk along. You can also swim in the ocean-front public pool. Admire the views along the bay and of the mountains, plus the public art along the way.

Central– Many main sights are central or within walking distance of here, including some already mentioned and others such as the Castle of Good Hope. Check out Greenmarket Square’s market, and wander along Long Street; infamous for its many bars, restaurants and clubs. During my visit I enjoyed Cape Town’s quieter pace in comparison to cities such as London.

EAT& DRINK

markets

Neighbourhoods Market, Woodstock- Set in the Old Biscuit Mill every Saturday between 9:00- 14:00. This popular market offers local produce, from voluptuous local vegetables and handcrafted artisan bread, to street food paella, music and some of the best coffee around. Arrive early to avoid the crowds.

Oranjezicht City Farm at Granger Bay- A stone’s throw away from the V&A Waterfront, this market celebrates its community roots, being linked with the urban farm of the same name by Homestead Park.  Set in a farmer market style, it is full of local produce from free range eggs, freshly baked bread and organic vegetables, to a variety of plants, and fresh flowers. There were also other independent stalls selling handicrafts and other items. Enjoy a range of food and drink options, from waffles to wraps, and coffee to juices. Come early morning for breakfast, good vibes, and beautiful views over the Atlantic ocean. Open: 08.30-14:00.

V&A Food Market- As mentioned above, this converted old power station is worth visiting for more than 40 different food vendors providing every possible food you can imagine, and as it is open 7 days a week. There is also live music every Saturday and Sunday afternoon. Like with Oranjezicht market, it is also undercover with seating, so you can visit regardless of the weather forecast. Check the website for its seasonal hours.

Restaurants

Cape Town’s food scene is on another level. As a visitor it was also affordable to eat extremely well, whether that is at top quality restaurants or at the food markets. Keep an eye out for the many restaurants which continue to pop up. Here are some of my favourite restaurants, offering some of the best food I have ever eaten.

Chefs Warehouse-  Tapas style restaurant with a daily changing 8 course menu for 2, influenced by a variety of cuisines inspired by chef Liam Tomlin’s travels. It is a journey for your tastebuds and stomach, with dishes usually including seafood and vegetarian options. It also offers friendly service and a relaxed atmosphere with communal style wooden tables. All produce on display including cookbooks and ingredients are avaliable to buy. There is a no-reservation policy so you may have to queue. On a weekday lunch we had no trouble getting a table.

Willoughby & Co- This may be the fanciest restaurant to be set in a shopping mall! What the location lacks the food makes up for, with a focus on sushi, seafood and other Japanese dishes. Whilst my sushi experience is limited, it is by far the best sushi I have eaten! It reminded me of the champagne and oyster bars in the UK which I do not tend to visit due to the prices. Here is a different story. Stellar sushi, and the easily accessible location by the V&A Waterfront mean queues are likely.

Pot Luck Club- Take the audacious lift to the top floor of Woodstock’s Old Biscuit Mill to be met with panoramic views over Cape Town and Table Mountain. This is also a innovative tapas-style restaurant, where you are given a list and pencil to select what items you would like on the eclectic menu split into five sections: salty, sour, sweet, umami and bitter. Its views, open central kitchen and relaxed atmosphere is the perfect pairing for its top quality food. Tables tend to get booked up weeks in advance, however keep an eye on online bookings as I found tables (I am guessing cancellations) came up quite regularly. I managed to book a table the week we went.

EL Burro- El Burro offers authentic Mexican food and of course with that plenty of tequila. I visited the one located on the main road through Greenpoint (also plenty of other bars and restaurants here for pizza, burgers etc), which is above a bar. Try one of the fish dishes or the build-your-own tapas. There are also vegan options.

Janse & Co- One of the most unique fine dining experiences I have had. Choose a variety of small plates (they recommended 3-4 per person). Enjoy the ambient setting that maintains a casual air despite the fancy food.

Bars

The Gin Bar- Once the ‘secret’ gin bar, due to its speakeasy style, this is a small dreamy spot and maintains its chilled setting despite not being so secret anymore. Picture bricked walls, tiled floor, stringed fairy lights, chilled music and mumoured conversations putting the world to rights. Pick from the four staple apothecary -inspired options named Head, Heart, Ambition & Soul. Alternatively pick your G&T of choice or try the weekly special. Access by walking through the Honest Chocolate cafe.

Yours Truly: Up Yours- Trendy spot popular with locals and backpackers alike. Enjoy the rooftop bar ‘Up Yours’ from 15:00-19:00 7 days a week. DJs and weekend live acoustic sessions, along with sunset views and plenty of foliage.

Grand Africa Cafe and Beach- A relaxed escape from the hustle of the waterfront. Beach bar style offering plenty of tables, sunbeds, music and shoreline views. I saw some people in swimwear and some going into the ocean. There are five bars to order from and table service. Enjoy a cocktail with your feet in the sand. There is also a popular food menu.

The Botanical Bar- Riding on the rise in popularity of botanical infused drinks, this aptly named and freshly decorated bar opened late 2017. It is the third opening for the owners who also have the Gin Bar under their belts. Drinks use locally crafted liquors as their base and nod to the Western Cape landscape; infused with wonderful concoctions crafted from indigenous botanicals. There is also food on offer.

Cafes

Giovanni’s- This food shop and deli is often described as the best deli in South Africa! It certainly felt like I had stepped into Europe, with it offering a lot more than some of Europe’s main city areas in terms of quality and variety. Grab a sandwich or humongous croissant to takeaway, stock up on deli items for a beach picnic or enjoy a snack and cappuccino on the verandah. Prepared sandwiches disappear fast each day.

Deluxe coffee- This coffee roasters has various outlets around Cape Town including a small cafe tucked down Church Street just away from the bustle of Greenmarket. Find freshly roasted coffee on site, friendly staff and fuss-free vibes, plus of course deliciously smooth coffee.

Yours Truly- Now with four locations open, Yours Truly offers a decent food and drink menu. I went to their original location near Long Street, with airy seating and on point interior goals. This is a great stop for lunch whilst exploring the city, plus there is a rooftop bar attached to Yours Truly on Kloof Street as mentioned above.

Shift Expresso- As I was staying right by here I frequented Shift for takeaway coffee most days! I stuck to the decently priced caffeine fix but the juices, pastries and food options always looked good. Again the staff were always so friendly, and happy to explain what was on offer. Check it out on the way to the Waterfront.

Bootlegger Coffee Company-  Another brand who continue to grow in success, with outlets in and around Cape Town. There are plenty of breakfast and lunch options to keep you satisfied, even if you went everyday for two weeks! The coffee and juices are also good. You will see a mix of tourists and locals with friends, or lining empty coffee cups up alone as they make use of the fast free wifi.

Jason’s Bakery- What started as a hole in the wall joint offering cool service, decent coffee and freshly baked goods, has now developed into one of Cape Town’s favourite bakeries, with two locations on offer in CBD and Greenpoint. Their bacon croissants, donuts, pies and sandwiches are legendary, meaning a wait is possible. Their Greenpoint location had recently opened when I visited in January 2018, so they were still finding their feet here and was awaiting their alcohol drinks license.

Honest Chocolate Cafe- Great variety of chocolate treats and coffee, plus it can be washed down with a gin from the secret bar in its courtyard after. What more could you want?

Beyond

stellenbosch

University town Stellenbosch is a 45 minute drive from Cape Town with a backdrop of vineyards and mountain ranges. With plenty of winery estates within proximity of the town, it is worth a visit.  Have a wander around the tree lined streets filled with stately architectural buildings, boutique shops and popular restaurants. A few of my friends had commented that this was their favourite place in South Africa due to the setting, vibe and fun nights out.

Try De Warenmarkt for a creative collective of Cape culinary highlights, in an open plan, communal dining style. It is a spot for indecisive times and all occasions from breakfast to evening drinks, thanks to the variety of tenants. This includes Deluxe coffee, and waffles and crepes by A Taste of Yummyness. Shop at the deli and butcher on site, or relax in the wine-tasting lounge and knock back a few oysters at the bar.
It is an innovative concept that reminded me of a cross between Borough Market and other food emporiums I have visited previously, but in an intimate historic space with a well-designed interior. Check out their facebook page for any events taking place including the weekly quiz night.

Genki for sushi was also good. It is tucked in a courtyard with strings of colourful lanterns.

There are plenty more options. Due to the student population there is a busy vibe and plenty going on. For more information on the history and Cape Dutch, Georgian and Victorian architecture head to the museum. There is also a small botanical garden and sculptures around the city.

For more information check out their tourism website.

Franschhoek

Fun fact: Franschhoek is often described as the ‘food and wine’ capital of South Africa. A picturesque town with French heritage, it is home to world-class restaurants, top wineries, and plenty of places to stay. Within an hour’s drive of Cape Town, and only 30 minutes or so from Stellenbosch, it is a perfect stop between wine-tasting, or as an escape from the city for a couple of days. There is also a hop on/hop off wine- tram.

We ate at Chefs Warehouse at Maison, the fourth establishment by Liam Tomlin. Similar in concept to the CBD counterpart, the globally inspired ‘tapas for two’ menu is delicious. I also loved the setting, with a patio and lawn overlooking the vineyard and mountains.

Check out Franschhoek’s tourism website for more information.

Along with the option to visit nearby Stellenbosch, there are plenty of hiking options to walk off gastronomic adventures. For example The Mont Rochelle Nature Reserve and Jonkershoek Nature Reserve.

wineries

There are plenty of wineries to explore for a day or two. Find the most suited for your location and transport means. Here are some suggestions below.

Constantina– The Constanina wine route is easily accessible within 20 or so minutes from Cape Town, even the city hop on/hop off bus stops here. You can pick up a wine bus to complete the route that includes the oldest vineyard in South Africa. There are also beautiful views thanks to the hillside location and scenic countryside surroundings.

Babylonstoren– This is more than a winery. It is the Disney of wineries and also one of the oldest Cape Dutch farms, meaning you can spend from several hours to a weekend here. There is a hotel, popular spa,  greenhouse restaurant, bakery, shops and beautiful gardens to walk through. All the garden plants have medicinal or edible value, and there is plenty of cultivated fruit and vegetables which guide what is served in the on-site restaurant. For more information take a tour through the garden or a wine-tasting/cellar tour. Check out their website here.

Boschendal- Near to Franshoek, this winery offers landscaped lawns, pop-up bars and bean bags for a tranquil few hours of relaxation. Plus there is fresh cuisine on offer including picnics that you can book, an on-site restaurant, and farm shop.

west coast

Head up the coast for a change of scene. I was taken to sleepy fisherman village Churchaven by a local friend who I was lucky to be introduced to. We grabbed supplies from Giovanni’s and road tripped for an hour or so to the West Coast National Park. It is such a special spot to relax at for a few hours (and to day dream about buying a house here!), with the ocean one side and the lagoon the other. As you can see from the photograph above, on a weekday it was deserted.

Postberg Flower reserve is nearby, which provides a colourful breakout open to visitors in August and September. There are also a few hiking options, wildlife and picnic spots en-route. Look at the website for up to date entry fees, and further information.

cape pennisula one day circuit

Cape Town’s most popular road trip is an 160km loop which includes panoramic views, penguins and picturesque points. Start by visiting Muizenberg, probably the best place to learn to surf near Cape Town (such as Roxy’s surf school). There are plenty of cafes for breakfast, shops to wander around, yoga sessions to try and the instagram-frequented colourful beach huts to pose by. Alternatively head on to Kalk Bay for fish and chips if you, like us, start after breakfast.

Continue on through historic Simon’s Town where you can briefly stop or pass. Then you arrive at Boulders Beach where around 3,000 African (also named ‘Jackass’) penguins are located. You pay on entry and walk down a boardwalk to a smelly and windy but glorious sight of penguins on the beach. It is nice to see them in their own habitat, although bizarre to see them sunning themselves. Adult entry at time of travel: R76

The next stop is the Cape of Good Hope, a national park with plenty of baboons to navigate around and a short walk to the lighthouse (or use the Flying Dutchman Funicular). View the vast ocean where the next land is Antartica. It is a sublime landscape with roaring waves, dramatic cliffs, vast beaches, and often a showcase of capetonian wind in all its glory. Cape Agulhas is the most southernly point of Africa; nearly 100 miles East.  Adult entry: R147.

Then begin the drive back, via Scarborough and Noorhoek. If it is open, use the Chapman’s Peak drive, often listed as one of the most scenic coastal drives in the world. Hug the coast as the waves crash below, before ending up at Camps Bay. This drive was closed due to winds the day we went. Note there is a toll charge to drive this way. 

You can also stop at Hout Bay if you have time. 

• Getting there: Many people recommend using the scenic train that chugs along the coast from Cape Town to Simon’s Town. From here you can walk 3km to Boulders Beach. Alternatively consider a tour such as Cape Point & Penguin Day Tour by Citysightseeing. You can also hire a car or taxi. 

general points

• Tip- Definitely use the inexpensive Citysightseeing Hop on, Hop Off bus! There are two main extensive routes that hit all the main sights. The purple Constantina wine valley bus, short boat cruises around the harbour and other extras are also included. Book online to save.
• Option- Also look into cage shark diving if it takes your fancy. There are plenty of providers in Cape Town.
• Further afield- If you have time, travelling around South Africa will give you an idea of the country‘s identity as a whole. Consider the Garden Route with the recommended Baz Bus. 
• The water shortage- You may have heard about the severe drought in Cape Town. If people stick to restrictions there should be no ‘Day Zero’ in 2019, what is good news (this is when taps will be switched off and emergency rations will be distributed at different points across the city). However there is still a lot of work to be done. It is important to respect these restrictions so tourism can remain a positive impact on infrastructure, not a negative one. Use these guidelines when in Cape Town to save water.  For more information read here. 
• Safety– I have often been asked how safe Cape Town is. Personally it felt similar to London, and many other major cities. It is important to keep alert , have a decent dose of common sense, and take general safety precautions. For example:

 -Keep valuables hidden and close to your person. Do not leave anything in your car, keep bags across your body, and cover your pin when using ATMs. 

-If you do drive, lock doors and keep windows up when stopping at traffic lights. Ignore anyone that approaches you. Often there are people who offer to watch your car for a small fee- some official, some not!

-Do not walk around at night (especially around Long Street), or get into a taxi without having pre-booked. Use Uber!

-Do not visit townships without a guide. The townships show the other side of Cape Town. Tours are often reported to be full of hope about change. If you want to do a tour, go with an official guide. The Hop On/ Hop Off tour has links to a walking tour.

-Be aware of general pick-pocketing scams. 

-Many people advise not to hike alone. I hiked Table Mountain and Devils Peak alone. Read about this here. 

If you do listen to the radio or watch the news in Cape Town the high crime rate in comparison to some other major tourist cities is evident. It is important to remember where there is poverty there is desperation. Where there is  complex history there will be remaining fractures. Some precautions may be surprising at first, such as high fences and security guarded complexes. Be mindful and respectful of this. I have been told that crime and security in Cape Town is less evident than other areas of South Africa.

As with any place you plan to visit, check your government website for current advice and safety tips. Do not forget to purchase travel insurance. 

Useful Information

Getting there- I flew with British Airways who offer direct 11 hour flights to Cape Town from the U.K. Alternatively fly indirect with various airlines including Emirates, and South African Airways.

Getting around- Ubers are popular and inexpensive. I used these frequently when alone and with friends.  Alternatively use the MyCiTi bus service. it is safe, reliable and covers most areas of Cape Town. As mentioned, the City Sightseeing bus is a cheap and easy way to cover all the main sights. I often walked back from the centre to Greenpoint where I was staying without issue. For trips further afield, consider car hire, a tour, Uber cost, or trains.

Stay- I stayed with a friend. There are plenty of Air Bnbs and hostels to research.

currency- south african rand (Zar).

other useful links

Cape Town tourism website: http://www.capetown.travel
uk goverment travel advice: https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/south-africa

 

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