‘Thousands of tired, nerve-shaken, over-civilized people are beginning to find out that going to the mountains is going home; that wildness is a necessity.’ – John Muir
The Brecon Beacons National Park in Wales is my go- to for hikes due to its proximity to home and its wild landscape. I have done many challenging training hikes, and relaxing hikes with friends. These have been in deep snow, heavy hail, ice-cold wind and a lot of rain. Saying that, there has also been plenty of rainbows, beautiful sunrises, misty atmospheric introspection and sunny days with views for miles. Not forgetting stargazing, picnics (sometimes of the soggy kind) and a multitude of coffees after hikes, from the vendor in the car park.
I go to walk, train and also to reflect. It is an easy place to hike alone, with friends or family. Saying that, research is important. Hiking in the Brecon Beacons is no walk in the park and weather can change quickly, so go prepared. At first I struggled to find relevant information about hikes other than Pen-Y-Fan. So, the purpose of this post is to give information about my experiences, with the main focus being on day hikes in the Brecon Beacons that I have experienced, including Pen-Y-Fan and hikes around it.
options for Hiking in the brecon beacons
Pen-Y-Fan
Pen-Y-Fan & Corn Du circular walk
The Brecon Beacons Circuit
Pont Arf adapted circuit
Horseshoe ridge walk
Other hikes in the Brecon Beacons
useful information for hiking in the Brecon Beacons
pen-y-fan WALK: up & down
Distance: 6.5km / 2 – 3 hours
Pen-Y-Fan is one of the most popular hikes in the Brecon Beacons National Park. It is not hard to see why, as its the highest peak in South Wales, and a doable hike for for all ages (weather permitting). Park in the Pont Ar Dar car park, easily accessible from the main road. Head up from the gate in the car park, over the bridge, and up the path. The start of the Pen-Y-Fan hike is in the picture above. It is a gradual, but relentless ascent so take as many breaks as you need.
This route will take you to a saddle with views over the Neuadd Valley, the reseviours by Merthyr Tydfil and beyond on a clear day. Do not go just for the views though. Also go for atmospheric misty walks, the fresh air and of course the achievement of reaching Pen-Y-Fan!
The saddle is often called the ‘windy pass’ and I have been blown several yards when the weather has been unsettled! You will see the ridge to your right and Corn Du to your left. Take the saddle path behind the left turn to Corn Du to follow the path up to the summit of Pen-Y- Fan at 886m. From here you can retrace your steps and walk down the same way.
PROS:
QUICKer HIKE, ACCESSIBLE FOR FAMILIES AND BEGINNERS, EASILY NAVIGITABLE AND GRADUAL DESCENT (less strain on the knees).
NOTE:
this is the busiest route in the brecon beacons national park.
IT MAY BE A MORE GRADUAL INCLINE, BUT PACE IT! I STILL TAKE TIME TO REGULATE MY BREATHING WALKING UP THIS WAY.
tip:
the car park is small and fills up fast on weekends/ sunny days! many people end up parking on the grass banks alongside the main road but be careful doing this. the storey arms car park is also small but may have spaces.
Pen y fan & corn du: circular walk
Distance: 6.4km / 2-3 hours
A slightly longer option for hiking in the Brecon Beacons. This route has the same starting point, but after Pen-Y-Fan (or before) you go up Corn Du. It is slightly steep and can require some scrambling but is worth it for a quieter peak and good views of Pen-Y-Fan. The picture above is taken from here facing Pen-Y-Fan on a clear day.
Instead of walking back from to Pont Arf Car Park, taken the trail leading towards the Storey Arms. On a high visibility day this will be obvious. If it is not, descend Corn Du and take the footpath to your right. This leads down to the Storey Arms car park (sadly not a pub). There is a kissing gate you can walk through to follow the forest line before ending up back in Pont Arf car park.
Alternatively you can reverse it and start from the Storey Arms to Pen-Y-Fan and Corn Du, then descend to the Pont Arf car park.
pros:
Relatively quick hike, an accessible challenge for beginners and families on good weather days, varied views, includes corn du.
note:
on a wet day descending to the storey arms can be slippery. consider ascending this way as the gradual path to pont arf is easier to descend on a rainy day.
the brecon beacons circuit: all peaks
distance: 17.7km / 4-6 hours
The big one and the one I remember when thinking about hiking in the Brecon Beacons. This is one of my favourite hikes here but pay attention when the trail veers off the common path, onto less traversed trails.
On this trail I would definitely recommend a map, and printing these useful instructions. I struggled to keep to the trail at points. Start and end at the Storey arms, but instead of heading up the path to Corn Du and Pen-Y-Fan you take the grass trail to the left just after the entrance gate. Then you will pass the remains of stone wall (a reassuring marker) to eventually reach Y Gyrn at 613m. After climbing over the stile I briefly lost the trail the first time despite having a map. However I could see dots slowly moving up the Storey arms path to Corn Du to the right, so I felt reassured.
A good marker is the obelisk for Tommy Jones (memorial for a miner’s son who died here) on the Craig Cwm Llwch ridge ahead. To reach this look for the slight downward slope that then goes up this ridge. However this was not visible the day I went. Cloud slowly rose and hugged the ridge, hiding it from view as rain fell and I stood figuring out my next move. Luckily, a lovely couple heading down reassured me that this was the path and to keep heading up.
Once you reach Pen-Y-Fan the rest of the hike is relatively easy to follow and mainly on stone paths. Hiker numbers fall and it is likely you will only see a handful (if any) hikers as this is a more difficult hike in the Brecon Beacons National Park.
pros:
experience all the peaks.
this route offers a wonderful day in the brecon beacons.
avoid the crowds. stunning views.
note:
There are many steep inclines. it is a testing hike in the brecon beacons which requires fitness but it is worth it.
take the right provisions as the weather frequently changes.
it is an isolating hike* at times and you will need plenty of energy.
* Random near death experience: So I choked here one time, and no-one was around. I was sat at one of my favourite lunch spots (the steps down from Pen-Y-Fan heading towards Cribyn). Merrily eating my wrap I started to choke, unable to breathe. Literally the most surreal moment. Luckily I managed to dislodge it, but just a little story to remind you that it is isolated area and not without expected/ unexpected danger. Plus lesson learnt that it is handy to know how to prevent yourself choking along with other first aid skills. (Heimlich yourself, cough if possible, or use a hard surface like a rock to exert pressure).
my adapted circuit: start and end at pont arf car park
distance: an estimated 16km/ 4-6 hours.
Here is my adapted hike option for hiking in the Brecon Beacons. I often skip the Storey Arms part of the Brecon Beacons Circuit when visibility is poor mainly due my inability to successfully follow the trail until I hit the exposed ridge. Instead I start and end at Pont Arf car park, heading up over Corn Du, onto Pen-Y-Fan then following the trail up steep Cribyn. From here you follow the ridge and gradually meet the stone path that runs to the Neuadd water reservoir.
The path is not so obvious once you pass the gate into the reservoir area. I turn left then right just before the next gate, and follow a narrow opening through the trees down towards the old pump house. From here walk over the narrow bridge then up to the grass banks. This is a perfect picnic spot on a dry day, and a good place to recoup before your final ascent.
Pass through the gate and up the now marked path thanks to the volunteers. Seriously. Before it was basically walking up a stream of water and I often ended up knee deep in bogs. The ridge goes on for a significant amount of time, but offers cracking views of the Brecon Beacons National Park on clear days, and plenty of time to reflect when the views are shrouded in cloud. Once you reach the saddle again turn left down to Pont Arf, unless you want to climb Pen-Y-Fan and Corn Du one last time!
Pros:
Easy to follow on stoned paths, a decent length, without the crowds.
Note:
Music is handy for the times when visibility is poor, ideally a bit of classical music to go with the dramatic landscape which fleetingly comes into view.
Horseshoe ridge walk
distance: 16km/ 4-6 hours
This walk starts at Taf Fechan car park, which is by the Neuadd resevior, so a completely different start point to the other hiking options. Once you go through the gate and turn left through the trees, go over the bridge past the old pump house you will see the views above, all being good visibility wise. Here is one of my favourite picnic spots in the Brecon Beacons, with less wind and plenty of space to relax. Turn left, keeping the reservoir on your left, and go through the gate. It is nice to start with this ascent to the Craig Fan Ddu ridge, before climbing up Corn Du and Pen-Y-Fan. As the name suggests, this route is in a horseshoe so just keep following the path over the peaks back to your start point.
To note: At one point this route recommends you walk along Craig Cwm Oergwm ridge diagonally to rejoin the ‘Gap Road’. It may be me but everytime I have tried to follow this trail I have either descending at a sharper diagonal than recommended, or have just missed the trail completely. I tend to ascend the Fan-Y-Big peak then descend the same way, and just walk along the Gap Road back past the Neuaad reseviour to the car park.
pros:
quieter start point compared to the other hike options in the brecon beacons I have suggested, with time to appreciate the peaks of corn du and pen-y-fan.
note:
Be aware country roads await you if you decide to park here, and check road conditions if there has been heavy rain. I drove through a few large puddles which could have been mistaken for ponds.
And a few other hiking options in the brecon beacons national park….
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Another challenging one: Cwm Llwch horseshoe walk
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short walk/ highest waterfall in south wales: Henrhyd Falls and nant llech
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plus rock climbing, and walks via historic plane crash sites due to the long history of the Brecon beacons national park being a military training site. see website links below for further information.
useful information:
- Getting there: Car parks in the Brecon Beacons National Park are currently free. Make note of the relevant postcode.
Merthyr Tydfil station is 19km away, and Abergavenny is 30 miles away. X43 bus links. Check out the Brecon Beacons website for up to date public transport information.. - Getting around: In terms of walking, it is important to take a map and have a GPS option, such as the Maps.Me free app. The links below offer sufficient maps which you can save or print off.
- Fun fact: There is no standard translation of Pen-Y-Fan, but it can translate to ‘top of the hill/beacon’.
- Alternative: There are plenty of other outdoor activities and other options to look into if you want to spend time in the Brecon Beacons.
- Tip: Arrive early to avoid crowds, or even earlier for a sunrise hike.
- Note: Standard hiking tips apply. Take litter with you, stick to the trails, and come prepared. Gear wise this means sufficient layers as the weather soon changes once you hit the saddle. Also be sure to pack waterproofs, and wear decent footwear. Ideally boots on longer hikes. Also consider packing a whistle, and torch if on a longer hike. Plus food and water of course.
- Facilities: There are toilets in Pont Arf car park. Food and drink vendors are often here rain or shine, including hot drinks and welsh cakes.
There are pubs not too far away but research locations beforehand. None are by the Pont Arf or Storey Arms (unfortunately this is just an outdoor centre). - Stay: Base yourself in Cardiff for a city break. Alternatively look at one of the many local options in the Brecon Beacons area, from hostels and campsites, to shepherds huts and country hotels. Also consider (responsible) wild camping.
Useful links
HTTP://WWW.BRECONBEACONS.ORG
HTTPS://WWW.NATIONALTRUST.ORG.UK/BRECON-BEACONS/LISTS/DOWNLOAD-A-WALK
Do you have Any other suggestions for hiking in the brecon beacons?
Or have you completed any of these hikes?
please share your experiences by commenting below!
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